McBooby

We were at Don Esteban & Don Pancho the other day when our wawa got hungry, so Patricia fed her. No big deal, unlike in the US, here in Peru you see women breastfeeding their babies in public all the time.

Breastfeeding at Don Esteban & Don Pancho

Breastfeeding at Don Esteban & Don Pancho

According to the CDC, breastfeeding rates in the US fall short of objectives. Duhh… as long as women can’t breastfeed anywhere outside their own homes what can you expect?

I mean, I grew up 2 hours outside of Amsterdam so NOTHING SCARES ME, but what could possibly be offensive about a mother nursing her child? If more women are to breastfeed their babies for longer periods, let them feed their baby whether they’re at a soccer game, in McDonalds or in the comfort of their own home.

Tipon: Like Machu Picchu without the tourists

We took my parents to Tipon the other day. Tipon is a beautiful Inca-era archeological site just outside of Cusco. It rivals Machu Picchu in architecture, water engineering, and stunning location on the side of a mountain.

Being touristy at Tipon

Being touristy at Tipon

Tipon

Tipon

Relaxing in the Andean sun

Relaxing in the Andean sun

Unlike Machu Picchu, Tipon is a quiet site, visited by few foreign tourists. It’s a perfect place to relax and enjoy the Andean sun or chat with the local visitors. You will usually find as many locals as foreign visitors at Tipon.

Why are there so few gringos at Tipon? Perhaps because they’re all at Machu Picchu, where the tour operators take them… I mean, why take S/.18 (transportation included) from the gringo to see Tipon if we can take $150 to see Machu Picchu?

If you’d like to see Tipon, the directions are on my travel blog.

A few tourists at Tipon

A few tourists at Tipon

Where are the gringos?

Where are the gringos?

Happy birthday Peru

July 28 is Peru’s national holiday or Fiestas Patrias, happy b-day Peru!!!

That’s all I’m going to say about the national holiday. Not that we aren’t patriotic, but July 28 also happens to be the birthday of Patricia’s grandmother, “Mama Vicky”, so we celebrate her birthday with the family. If you need pictures or war stories of the Fiestas Patrias, I recommend Barb or Stuart.

As for “Mama Vicky”, the account of her true age varies between 82 and 85. Either way, the experiences in her lifetime are hard for me to even imagine. She raised 8 kids – and sadly lost several more – in the small town of Accha throughout the bad-old-days of terrorism in Peru.

Mama Vicky on her birthday

Mama Vicky on her birthday

My parents are in town for a few weeks, so they got to enjoy the party as well. As usual here in Peru, Mama Vicky’s birthday was celebrated with food, family, beer, wine and Pisco.

4 generations

4 generations

Drinking Pisco Sours

Drinking Pisco Sours

Happy birthday Mama Vicky!!!

Chicas peperas

Single guys who visit Cusco read this and consider yourself warned.

I had my students do one of my favorite writing exercises last week: write a story in groups, with each student contributing one line at a time. This way the story develops itself instead of following a pre-determined storyline.

Here’s how one group started their story:

(student 1) “One day I woke up in the gutter…”
(student 2) “There I found Romulo Leon…”

And a little further down:

(student 3) “Then we went to Don Diablo disco…”
(student 4) “Where we started dancing with 3 chicas peperas

Chicas peperas? I’d heard many students say that Don Diablo is a dangerous place, where you can get robbed or get in a fight. But chicas peperas was new to me.

My students explained chicas peperas are girls that typically hang out at the less reputable discos in Cusco. They get guys to buy them a drink, or bring the guys a drink themselves (servers typically don’t wear uniforms, so you don’t know). Next thing the poor guy knows is when he wakes up in the middle of the Plaza de Armas…

  • Where’s my wallet?
  • Where’s my cellphone?
  • Where are my clothes? What happened?

We usually go out to the typical tourist spots on the Plaza de Armas such as Mama Africa, which have always been safe to us. If you’d prefer to get away from the tourist traps, I believe most of the neighborhood discos in Cusco are safe as well, but best ask the locals first.

Mama Africa, early in the evening

Mama Africa, early in the evening

Update: the scoop on peperas in Lima, from a reliable source.

Parque Kennedy in Lima is even worse than Q’osqo for the peperas. My best moment was while drinking sundown pisco sours with my brother, newly arrived that afternoon and off the plane. We dumped our bags at the overnight hotel and i took him to Cafe de la Paz on Kennedy for the best pisco sour i know (nice outside terrace, excellent sandwiches, too).

So my single, younger brother notices after 15 mins that he’s getting stared at by a couple of v pretty girls. As soon as he makes eye contact with one of them they’re at the table like a shot. I fake that i don’t speak Spanish (my brother doesn’t need to fake that bit) and it took about 20 minutes before they invited us to a disco later that evening. They leave to “Go get ready for later…see you boys there!!” and only then do i tell bro what a pepera is and how it all works.

He decided not to turn up for his date.

Tim Geithner related to Alan Garcia??

I’m beginning to think Tim Geithner and Alan Garcia are drinking the same Kool-Aid. In the news today:

Geithner sees ‘durable’ signs of stability “Probably why I’m doing this (tour) is to make sure we keep working with governments around the world to continue to provide enough support to lift this global economy back to a sustained pattern of growth,” he told reporters.

And in other news:

Geithner’s rhetoric is like that of Alan Garcia, who keeps claiming Peru is on track for strong GDP growth and has an iron-clad, recession-proof economy. The numbers, souped up to begin with, show otherwise (courtesy IKN) :

Chile and Peru GDP

Chile and Peru GDP

The root of the problem in the US, put simply, is that people bought houses they couldn’t afford. Without steep wage inflation, the foreclosure crisis and falling home prices may continue for some time (see Japan). For all the monetary easing (printing money) Geithner et al are doing, the only thing that achieves is to temporarily prop up the feeble balance sheets of overleveraged banks.

Tim Geithner and Alan Garcia both use optimistic rhetoric to appease the general public but sadly their policies serve rich old guys in suits before the general public.

Media

The links below are absolute must read. Nothing I can add.

Hard-to-believe, but true story about media coverage of the Bagua massacre in Peru last month:

In Spanish on GCC
In English from IKN

Established media in Peru really dropped the ball on this. Who knows how many people read the government propaganda and misinformation and took it for fact since it came from the nation’s leading media outlets. Que basura!!!

El Comercio miente

El Comercio miente

Picture courtesy of Amazilia

Baby’s first restaurant trip

We took Brianna on her first restaurant trip. Some fellow expat bloggers (Barb, Rachel and Stuart) will love me for this… We didn’t take her to one of my local favorites such as Coco Loco’s, Trotamundos or Makayla’s, but to McDonald’s!!!

Eat your veggies, put some ketchup on those fries!

Eat your veggies, put some ketchup on those fries!

At McDonald's in Cusco

At McDonald's in Cusco

Look, it was Patricia’s idea, plus we had a coupon 🙂

Actually most Cusquenians don’t seem to mind that a McDonalds opened on the Plaza de McDonalds – digo, Plaza de Armas – it’s pretty low key without its typical big golden arches. In addition, we had just come from RENIEC, the mother of all Peruvian bureaucracy, so I was ready for some good American style efficiency and capitalism!

Baby's first, but not last, visit to RENIEC

Baby's first, but not last, visit to RENIEC

RENIEC is the agency that issues DNIs, the Peruvian national ID card. Like all of the bureaucratic agencies in Peru, RENIEC is full of pencil pushers whose only goal in life is to maintain their steady paycheck, regardless of how much they may be holding back development in Peru. I mean, I could have been working instead of trying to hold my baby up straight so she could put her “footprints” (not kidding) on her ID papers.

I’m cranky now, gimme a cheeseburger 😦

GM, Peru interest rates and 2-party communism

Random thoughts on some of the day’s main business news:

GM exits bankruptcy. CEO Fritz Henderson said

“…the new GM will be faster and more responsive to customers than the old one and it will make money and repay government loans faster than required.”

Yeah, right. Why don’t I have warm fuzzies about this? When was the last time a company majority owned by the US government and the UAW became faster and more responsive? The company even brought back Bob Lutz, one of the old rich guys who was at the helm of the ship when it went under. Sure GM dumped a bunch of liabilities, but with revolutionaries like the US government, the UAW and Bob Lutz in the driver’s seat I doubt they made a lot of structural changes to the problems that got them in trouble to begin with.

Perhaps the biggest thing I question about GM’s reorganization plan is the sale of Saturn, which essentially becomes an independent dealer network. If you’ve never heard of Chery, JAC, SsangYong or Mahindra, you may soon enough at a Saturn dealer near you. In 5 or 10 years, GM will be relegated to selling trucks, Suburbans and Corvettes, no mas.

New Chery cars at a Peruvian dealership

New Chery cars at a Peruvian dealership

In other news, Peru lowers interest rates. Interest rates are near zero practically all over the world. How’s that been working out for Japan in the last 2 decades or so? I’m with the camp that says the whole financial mess was caused by too much leverage, lending more money is not the solution.

By the way, since interest rates in the US are near zero, how much should you be paying on your credit cards? And if you’re paying 5% on your mortgage, isn’t that about 4.5% too much? Exactly where does that 4.5% go? Once again, if you believe the well-being of the big banks on Wall Street – at the taxpayers expense – is in the best interest of middle class America, I’ve got a mountain in Peru I’d love to sell you 😉

More news this simple mind doesn’t understand… Timmy Geithner says derivatives should be regulated. Creo que no. Regulation isn’t the answer. What would have been better is if the government had simply let AIG fail, this way most of the derivatives would have gone away and perhaps, just maybe, the bankers on Wall Street might have gotten a lesson in morality. Not to mention, taxpayers would have been saved some $180 billion that now went to such needy institutions as Goldman Sachs and Deutsche Bank. Let the market adjust itself, stop bailing out old rich guys in suits.

2-party communism

All this brings me to my main point, the US effectively is a 2-party communist state now. Sure you have individual freedoms, so I don’t mean to imply communism like in the old Soviet Union. But realistically, business and government have become institutionalized and joined at the hip. GM, Chrysler, untold number of banks have been deemed “too big too fail” and are without a doubt taking advantage of that status. Treasury and the Fed prefer regulation over allowing the markets to correct. Bernanke, Geithner, et al are printing up money to distribute as they see fit, practically reducing competitive advantage to where you stand in your ability to tap into government funds. In Washington and New York, decision makers move seemlessly between government and private positions. Henry Paulson was at Goldman before he came to Treasury, wanna take bets where Timmy Geithner will be in 2 years?

All this of course is bad for innovation and real value creation – ever driven an old Lada? Businesses that have become institutions of government have little incentive to make or do better things, yet they wield tremendous competitive advantage over independent companies.

I’m not too worried about any of this though. I believe you have to make your own luck, no matter what the big wigs in Washington, New York or Lima say or do. And the pendulum will eventually swing back in the opposite direction, as it always does. But for now we are “kicking the proverbial can down the road” too much, and future generations will be paying for our excesses. Better get ready to work, Brianna 🙂

Cusco – general strike pictures

There has been a lot of social unrest in Peru as of late, in particular in the provinces. The working class, the poor and indigenous people have been justifiably unhappy with the neo-liberal free-trade policies of the government in Lima. The worst unrest happened in Bagua last month, but there has been widespread social unrest all over Peru recently.

Here are some pictures of the general strike in Cusco today:

During strikes there are typically demonstrations by the main government buildings and the roads are often blocked. For example, there has been an ongoing dispute in Sicuani that caused temporary chicken shortages here in Cusco, since trucks were not able to come from Arequipa.

Here in Cusco social unrest is very mild. Thanks to the tourism industry the standard of living in Cusco is much different from in the rural areas. If you live in Cusco, the reality is that you should plan for about 5-10 extra days of vacation every year.

Finally, during strikes here in Cusco you see Peruvian police (PNP) standing by everywhere, in case, you know, an ice cream vendor comes by 🙂

My first bribe in Peru

Bribery is part of life here in Peru. If you get pulled over in traffic for example, just step out of the car and leave S/.20 (~$7) on the front seat. The cop will politely wish you a good day. While that may seem rather innocent, corruption in Peru has historically reached to the top levels (in English from IKN) of Peruvian government.

I’ve managed to get through nearly 2 years in Peru without bribing anyone, unless you count the time we were on the way to hand out Christmas presents to poor kids in a rural town and we had to give a cop a piece of Paneton for safe passage. Seriously.

Aside from the fact that I’m a cheap Dutchman, I just hate the thought of being part of the corruption. The bureaucracy is like a cancer here in Peru, with a bunch of middle class folks hiding in their comfy government offices enjoying the status quo, lining their pockets without doing a thing to improve their country. So I stubbornly persisted through getting legally married in Peru and obtaining my carne extranjeria without bribing anyone. But all that changed last week.

I got bribed.

OK, it wasn’t a real quid-pro-quo thing, more like what GE would call a facilitating payment. On the last day of class, which are always interesting, one of my students gave me this beautiful hand-made sweater for our baby girl.

My first bribe in Peru

My first bribe in Peru

It wasn’t the first time a student gave me a gift, but in this case the girl had missed more classes than she was supposed to, so it had a bit more of a “teacher please help me out” feeling attached to it 🙂

Honestly the so-called rule we have about students not missing classes is totally disregarded anyway, so it wasn’t as if she would have failed the class, but when she gave it to me in front of all her classmates, everyone laughed and said things in Spanish I’m only too glad I didn’t understand 😉